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CHAPTER 1 CLOTHING CLASSIFICATIONS服装分类 1

1 Classifications with a View to Everyday Life日常分类 1

1.1 Upper Clothing上装 1

1.2 Lower Clothing下装 4

1.3 Suits and Ensembles西服套装和便服套装 6

2 Classifications with a View to International Trade国际贸易中的分类 7

2.1 Classification Based on H.S.Code基于协调制编码的分类 7

2.2 Classification Based on Special Regulations基于特殊规则的分类 8

2.3 Classification Based on the Method of Manufacture基于生产方法的分类 9

3 Importance of the Classifications分类的重要性 9

3.1 For Statistical Purposes为了统计 10

3.2 To Describe the Name of the Goods in a Contract为了描述合同中的商品名称 10

Words and Phrases词汇 16

Exercises练习 24

CHAPTER 2 GARMENT SECTIONS,PATTERNS AND MEASUREMENT LOCATIONS服装组成部分，样板和测量部位1 Garment Sections服装组成部分 26

1.1 Sections in Upper Garments上装的组成部分 26

1.1.1 Body大身 26

1.1.2 Sleeves袖 28

1.1.3 Collars领子 30

1.1.4 Pockets衣袋 32

1.2 Sections in Lower Garments下装的组成部分 33

1.2.1 Trousers裤 33

1.2.2 Skirt裙 34

1.3 Other Garment Components and Styling Details其他衣片和款式细节 35

2 Patterns样板 39

3 Measurement Locations测量部位 40

Words and Phrases词汇 44

Exercises练习 53

CHAPTER 3 GARMENT FABRICS,ACCESSORI-ES,LABELS AND HANGTAGS服装的织物、辅料、标签和吊牌1 Garment Fabrics服装的织物 55

1.1 Shell Fabrics面料 55

1.2 Linings里料 57

2 Accessories辅料 58

2.1 Sewing Threads缝纫线 58

2.2 Fasteners扣合件 61

2.2.1 Buttons纽扣 61

2.2.2 Zippers拉链 62

2.2.3 Snaps揿钮 64

2.2.4 Velcro尼龙搭扣 65

2.3 Interlinings衬头 65

2.4 Wadding填料 66

2.5 Other Accessories其他辅料 67

3 Labels and Hangtags标签和吊牌 68

3.1 Labels标签 68

3.1.1 Brand Label品牌标签 69

3.1.2 Origin Label产地标签 69

3.1.3 Size Label尺码标签 70

3.1.4 Washing Label洗涤标签 70

3.1.5 Other Labels其他标签 71

3.2 Hangtags吊牌 72

Words and Phrases词汇 73

Exercises练习 80

CHAPTER 4 WORKING SHEETS工艺单 82

1 The Function of Working Sheets工艺单的作用 82

2 Contents of a Working Sheet工艺单的内容 82

2.1 Material Specifications and Consumption材料的规格和耗用量 83

2.2 Working Sketch效果图 84

2.3 Technical Details技术细节 85

2.3.1 Stitch Sypes线迹类型 85

2.3.2 Stitch Density线迹密度 91

2.3.3 Seam Types缝子类型 91

2.3.4 Edge Binding and Seam Neatening滚边和缝子毛边处理 93

2.3.5 Seam Allowance缝头 94

2.4 Size Chart尺寸表 94

3 Abbreviations and Simplified Words in the Working Sheets工艺单中的缩略词和简化词 96

Words and Phrases词汇 100

Exercises练习 104

CHAPTER 5 GARMENT MANUFACTURE服装生产 106

1 Introduction to Manufacturing Sequences生产工艺流程介绍 106

1.1 Manufacturing Sequences for Cut-fashioned Garments裁剪成形服装的生产流程 106

1.1.1 Pattern Cutting样板制作 106

1.1.2 Sample Making打样 109

1.1.3 Grading推档 109

1.1.4 Fabric and Accessory Inspection织物和辅料检验 110

1.1.5 Lay-planning and Marker-making铺料设计和画排料图 112

1.1.6 Fabric-spreading铺料 117

1.1.7 Cutting裁剪 118

1.1.8 Sorting,Bundling and Numbering分类、打捆和打号 118

1.1.9 Fusing上黏合衬 119

1.1.10 Sewing,Under Pressing and Trimming缝纫、小烫和修整 119

1.1.11 Finishing and Final Pressing整理和成衣熨烫 120

1.1.12 Garment Inspection服装检验 121

1.1.13 Packaging包装 121

1.2 For Knit-fashioned Garments对于编织成形的服装 122

2 Equipment in Clothing Factories服装厂设备 124

2.1 Equipment in Sewing Rooms裁剪车间设备 125

2.1.1 Cutting Table裁剪桌 125

2.1.2 Spreading Machine铺料机 125

2.1.3 Cutting Tools裁剪工具 126

2.1.4 Fusing Equipment上黏合衬设备 128

2.1.5 Other Equipment in Cutting Rooms裁剪车间的其他设备 129

2.2 Equipment in Sewing Rooms缝工车间设备 129

2.2.1 Overview of Primary Sewing Machines基本缝纫机的概况 129

2.2.2 Primary Systems in a Sewing Machine缝纫机的主要系统 130

2.2.3 Other Equipment其他设备 135

2.2.4 Production Lines生产线 136

2.3 Equipment used in the Finishing Room整理车间所用设备 138

Words and Phrases词汇 140

Exercises练习 150

CHAPTER 6 GARMENT QUALITY ISSUES服装质量问题 152

1 The Importance of Garment Quality服装质量的重要性 152

2 The Criteria for Garment Quality服装的质量准则 152

3 Common Garment Quality Problems常见的服装质量问题 153

3.1 Inherent Quality内在质量 153

3.2 Apparent Quality外在质量 156

3.2.1 Apparent Quality Problems due to Fabric Faults源于织物疵点的外在质量问题 157

3.2.2 Apparent Quality Problems due to Poor Workman-ship or Manufacturing Skills源于不良的做工或生产技术的外在质量问题 158

Words and Phrases词汇 161

Exercises练习 164

Keys to Exercises练习题答案 166

Index to Words and Phrases词汇索引 168

Chinese Version中文参考译文 207

Suggested Further Reading and Links to Websites建议进一步阅读的读物和浏览的网站 279

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